Seoul Autumn Walking Diary — Palace Foliage, Hwadam Forest, and Pumpkin Cookies

The crunch of ginkgo leaves underfoot, steam rising from a latte, sunlight slipping past the eaves — that season is here.

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At a Glance

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DAY 1: Namsan's Maple Trail and Deoksugung's Stone Wall

Starting in an Alley Café

Autumn mornings start with coffee. Step inside a little café tucked in an alley and you'll hear jazz weaving through the hiss of the espresso machine. Pick up a latte — your palms go warm. That's how the day begins.

The Park with the Namsan Tower View

The park is a short walk from the café. The moment you step in, Namsan Tower appears between crimson maples. The tower pins itself against the blue sky, with layers of red and gold stacking up beneath it. Lots of people taking photos — you can fit the entire Seoul skyline in one frame.

Deoksugung Stone Wall Road

It's a 30-minute walk from Namsan Park to Deoksugung, or 5 minutes by bus. Walk along the stone wall and you'll catch glimpses of palace rooftops peeking over the top. I walked slowly, stepping on the ginkgo leaves scattered across the ground. The inside of the wall is worth a stroll too — cool stone floors and long shadows stretching from the eaves.

One Bite of Waffle

There was a long line at the waffle shop in front of the palace. I bit into a Belgian dark chocolate almond waffle — the almond butter was salty and nutty, the outside crispy, the inside warm. After all that walking, the sweetness sinks right into your tired legs.

Nearby there's the Jeongdong Observatory, where you can look down over Deoksugung for free. The palace looks completely different from above — autumn leaves wedged between the tiled rooftops. Check the hours before you go, though — they're limited.

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DAY 2: Hwadam Forest — Two Hours Outside Seoul for the Foliage

About two hours by car from Seoul, in Gwangju, Gyeonggi Province. The mountain foliage is on a completely different level from the city. The reds are vivid, almost fierce.

From the Cable Car

Riding up, the red leaves pass right at eye level. Feels like you could reach out and touch them. The slightly overcast sky actually made the colors deeper.

Getting Tickets — One Tip

Tickets here are genuinely hard to get. You can buy admission online, but even if it says sold out, keep refreshing — cancellations pop up pretty often. Monorail tickets are sold separately, and those are even harder to snag.

Here's the thing though: the 50-minute hike to the top isn't that tough. Walk up and enjoy the foliage on the way, then grab a monorail ticket on-site for the way down. The downhill monorail line was practically empty when I went.

Lunch by the Pond

The food court near the entrance has outdoor seating. I sat right next to the pond and ordered pajeon (Korean savory pancake), kimbap, and eomuk (fishcake) — with a glass of makgeolli (Korean rice wine) alongside the pajeon.

Tear off a crispy piece of pajeon, chase it with a sip of makgeolli. Red leaves drifting across the pond. I honestly don't know a better way to spend an autumn afternoon.

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DAY 3: Anguk-dong — Palaces and Ginkgo Trees

Near Anguk Station. This is where Seoul's palaces cluster together.

The Yellow Street

Ginkgo trees line the streets around here. By late October, the entire road turns gold. Through the café window, ginkgo trees — sunlight breaking apart through the yellow leaves. I had some time, so I caught up on work at the café. People around me studying, working — I got pulled into the focus somehow.

London Bagel Museum, Attempt Number Three

Third time trying. 158 people in the queue. Gave up. Next time. Grabbed a quick lunch at a bakery across the street and headed for the palace.

Changdeokgung Secret Garden

Tickets for Changdeokgung's Secret Garden (Biwon) sell out fast in autumn. I got lucky — a few slots left for the last time block. The Secret Garden was the private retreat of Joseon-era kings and royals — gardens, ponds, centuries-old trees all woven together. Being the last tour of the day, the crowds were thin.

There was an English guided tour available, but I wanted to walk at my own pace, so I went with the self-guided option. If you're curious about the history, I'd recommend the guided tour — every tree, every pond has a story.

When I reached Buyongjeong Pond — the red maples reflected on the water. The same red above and below. I stood there for a long time.

The Mother Tree at Gyeongbokgung

After the Secret Garden, I walked to Gyeongbokgung. Inside the palace grounds stands a single ginkgo tree called the Mother Tree. Over 500 years old. Photos don't do the size justice — you have to stand beneath it. A thick blanket of yellow leaves covered the ground all around.

Gyeongbokgung is free to enter if you're wearing hanbok (traditional Korean dress). Rental shops line the street outside the palace — around ₩15,000–25,000 for 2–3 hours.

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DAY 4: Autumn at Seoul Forest

A Café Overlooking the Forest

I sat on the second floor of a café right next to Seoul Forest. The entire forest spread out beyond the window. I ordered a flat white and a honey chocolate cake — that coffee was honestly one of the best I've had in Korea. The cake was chewy, soaked in honey. I drank it slowly while sunlight fell across the table.

A Maze of a Park

I was worried the foliage might be dull this year because autumn was unusually warm, but the colors were vivid enough. Seoul Forest is like a maze — every turn reveals a new pocket. Dogs running across the lawn, a deer enclosure, a field of reeds. It's the kind of place where getting lost is perfectly fine.

Late at Night, Pumpkin Cookies

Back home, I did some pumpkin baking. Pumpkin puree is hard to find in Korea, so I made it from scratch — and one whole pumpkin barely yields this much.

Brown the butter until it darkens, then one cup of sugar, egg yolks, pumpkin puree, a spoonful of pumpkin spice mix, half a teaspoon of baking soda, a spoonful of honey, and one and a half cups of flour. Chill the dough in the fridge for an hour, then into the oven for 30 minutes.

Feet aching, camera battery dead, pumpkin dough still under my nails — that's how autumn in Seoul ends.

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Practical Notes

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